Last few days in Ireland

Tuesday, 9th October

A Quiet Day

This is our last full day in Ireland. We decided that we would have a restful day and, apart from some tidying up of Mirabel, we simply went down into Blarney to have a walk, a cake and a cup of tea. We ordered a Chinese meal to be delivered to the camp site in the evening.

Blarney Woollen Mills (we had cake here!)

Lyn

Lyn and Button

Wednesday, 10th October

On our way Home

We packed everything away and got on our way from Blarney to Rosslare by 10 am. We stopped at Youghal (pronounced Yawl) to give Button a walk and to change drivers. The beach there was freshly exposed by the receding tide and the sand was quite muddy but Button was able to chase her ball a little.

On the beach at Youghal

Ornate bandstand on the green at Youghal

We drove on, crossing the toll bridge at Waterford and headed for Carne Beach to pass the time while we waited for the ferry and to give Button her final chance to play on the sand for a while. The beach at Carne was extensive, clean and empty! Button had a great time. We arrived at Rosslare Harbour and checked in for our ferry. The ferry was very quiet so loading took little time and we were able to get a meal on board by the time it departed for Fishguard. The ferry arrived a little late, nearly 10 pm, so after topping up the fuel we drove for a couple of hours to a lay-by near the Bwlch Nant y Arian Forest Visitor Centre. We parked up, had a cup of tea and went to bed. Next morning we drove the rest of the way home to arrive by 11:30. Despite a few problems and disappointments we had enjoyed our holiday in Ireland. I'm sure we will be back again!

Toll bridge at Waterford

Carne Beach. Rosslare Harbour is behind the headland on the horizon

Waiting for the ferry

Goodbye Ireland!

Beara and Cork

Friday, 5^th October

The Beara Peninsula

We left Killarney bound for Cork via the Beara Peninsula. We were both delighted with the scenery in Beara. It is wilder and much less touristy than the Ring of Kerry. We saw very little traffic and no tourist coaches. Our first stop was at the small fishing settlement of Bunaw. We had a short walk and then continued on our journey. We drove through the village of Ardgroom with its attractively painted houses along the main street before stopping at a beautiful viewpoint at Duneen near Allihies. This was once a copper mining area and evidence of the workings still exists.

Near Bunaw

Painted houses at Ardgroom

Painted houses at Ardgroom

Guiness advert painted on the wall of a house in Ardgroom

At Dunoon

Mirabel at Dunoon

Fuschias and view at Dunoon

Old copper mine pumping house on hillside above Allihies

Button got her walk and playtime on Allihies beach then we continued our journey via Catletown-Berehaven and Glengariff to arrive at our next site, Blarney Camping near Cork. We found the drive quite tiring so we ordered Pizzas to be delivered to the site. They were very good.

Button on the beach at Allihies

Allihies Bay

Allihies Bay

Beara Seascape

Saturday, 6^th October

Cork and Garryvoe

We had decided to go into Cork today for the Cork Folk Festival. The owner of the camp site suggested that we should park at the Blackpool Shopping Centre and walk in to the city as parking is difficult for car drivers and near impossible for motorhomes! The walk was a lot further than we had expected, around 45 minutes. We watched a pipe and dance group from Galicia in Emmett Square for a while then walked to investigate other venues to check whether they would allow Button in. None of them would so, disappointed, we returned to Mirabel – another 45 minute walk. Not pleased with our experience we left Cork and headed out to Garryvoe to give Button some beach time. Garryvoe was nice enough but the tide was right in and there was very little sandy beach exposed. Button did get a chance to chase the ball a bit before we headed back to Blarney.

Garryvoe beach

Ballycotton lighthouse from Garryvoe beach

In the evening we went to a nearby restaurant for a very nice, though expensive, meal. Overall we were disappointed with Cork. It was too busy, too difficult to park or to find the folk venues and none of those would allow dogs in.

Sunday, 7^th October

Farran Forest Park and Kate Rusby

Lyn went to a Church of Ireland harvest service at Carrigrohane in the morning while I looked after Button. We had intended to go to Blarney Castle and gardens after this but they don’t allow dogs either! As an alternative we drove out to Farran Forest Park and had a very nice walk under the autumn woodland colours.

St Peters C of I church

Deer in wildlife enclosure at Farran Forest

Lyn and Button in Farran Forest

Autumn leaves

Taiscumar Reservoir, next to Farran Forest Park

Rook perched on kids play equipment at Farran Forest

In the evening we took a taxi into Cork leaving Button to guard Mirabel. We found one of the festival venues, the Corner House and went in. It was a very busy, typical Irish pub where a bluegrass trio were playing. We enjoyed our drinks and the group before leaving for a hurried meal in Nando’s and going to the Opera House for our pre-booked Kate Rusby concert. The supporting act was Seamus Begley and Jim Murray. They were very good, singing several of their songs in Irish. Seamus played excellent accordion and Jim played guitar. After the interval we were treated to an excellent set from Kate Rusby lasting over 1½ hours. After the gig we phoned for the taxi to take us back to Blarney.

Monday, 8^th October

The Old Head of Kinsale

We drove down to Kinsale but didn’t stop at the pretty harbour town because of the lack of parking for Mirabel. We drove on to the Old Head of Kinsale instead. Here, there is a museum dedicated to the sinking of the Lusitania during the First World War. The passenger liner Lusitania was torpedoed 18 Kms south of the Old Head of Kinsale with the loss of nearly 1200 lives. The museum, housed in one of the many signal towers dating from the Napoleonic Wars, was very interesting and the views from the walkway at the top were extensive. It was very windy though so we didn’t spend long up there!

Lusitania image made up of over three thousand different size perforation in a steel sheet

Old Head of Kinsale from the top of the signal tower

Passenger names

Detail of commemorative bronze

Lyn and the commemorative bronze with names of all aboard the Lusitania

Flags of the nations of the passengers

Wild Atlantic Way post at Old Head of Kinsale

We drove on to find a beach for Button to have a run but the first one we stopped at was so exposed that we were sand blasted as soon as we stepped out of Mirabel. The next beach was better, still windy but with wet sand from the receding tide so we didn't suffer from sand being blown in our eyes. Button had a good play with the ball before we left to continue via Timoleague and Clonakilty back to Blarney. The drive along Courtmacsherry bay was very attractive. We stopped to do a little birdwatching at the mud flats and found many ripe blackberries which served us well as dessert in the evening.

Lyn and Button on the beach near Old Head of Kinsale

The beach near Old Head of Kinsale

Waves

Courtmacsherry Bay

County Clare and Killarney

Saturday, 29^th September

Travelling South again

We left Seal Caves in Dugort mid morning and started on our journey to Doolin in County Clare. The first part of the journey took us via the Wild Atlantic Way along the coast road on Achill Island. The views were truly spectacular, looking out over the Atlantic towards Clew Bay. On reaching Achill Sound we stopped at Kildavnet. This fishing port has strong historical connections to the Pirate Queen, Gráinne Ní Mháille (Grace O’Malley in the English version). She was a very intelligent and successful lady who took over active leadership of the lordship after her father died. She led a large group of seamen that collected tolls from ships passing through the Sound and also sacked and took several castles. Her main residence was at Clare Island in Clew Bay but she also held a tower house at Kildavnet.

The beach at Dooega

Between Dooega and Kildavnet

Kildavnet pier

Grace O'Malley's tower house

Button and Lyn

We drove back over the bridge to the mainland and made our way down via Westport and Galway to Doolin. We were pleased to see the Burren again, last visited by us 28 years ago. We passed through Lisdoonvarna which was very busy with the matchmaking festival that takes place every September. Doolin was also very busy and felt very touristy; not really our sort of place but we had booked and paid for a pitch at Nagles Campsite in advance. Ferries leave from Doolin pier for the Aran Islands. I considered taking a trip out on the morrow depending on the weather. It was quite windy and very grey this evening.

Wild Atlantic Way post at Doolin Pier

Cliffs of Moher from Doolin

Limestone pavement at Doolin

Sunday, 30^th September

The Burren

The weather hadn’t improved so after a cooked breakfast we drove out to Kilfenora to see the cathedral of St Fachtnagh built around 1200 as the centre of the smallest diocese in Ireland. Several stone crosses can be seen here or nearby though one of the high crosses was removed to Killaloe in the 19^th century. Kilfenora is known as the gateway to the Burren and the Burren Discovery Centre is situated there. It was also the location for much of the filming of Father Ted!

Crosses at Kilfenora

Cross at Kilfenora

We continued on to visit Poulnabrone Dolmen, A portal Tomb built in the Neolithic Period. We last visited this site with our children 28 years ago when it seemed a lonely, isolated and little visited place. It is now much visited and the Dolmen itself is roped off though still easy to see. We had a long conversation with the warden there who told us that now it needs constant supervision because of graffiti and vandalism. Sometimes tourism is a curse!

Poulnabrone Portal Tomb

We continued on through the limestone pavement (Karst) scenery of the Burren to follow the coast road back to Doolin. The narrow road was quite busy with tourist coaches which made for difficult progress in Mirabel. We stopped at Fanore to give Button a chance for a play on the beach. She had her usual manic time chasing the ball and digging.

Burren view

Lyn kicking the ball for Button to chase

Got it!

Fanore Beach

Monday, 1^st October

To Killarney

We left Doolin to travel south to Killarney passing along the road that goes past the Cliffs of Moher visitor centre. I’m rather glad we didn’t go there. Our memories of the Cliffs from nearly 30 years ago are of a wild and deserted but magnificent place. When we passed today there were already at least half a dozen tour buses and several dozen cars there. Seeing this natural wonder surrounded by hoards of other visitors did not appeal.
We continued on through Westport (where I proposed to Lyn 47 years ago!) and Ennis to take the M18 motorway to Limerick. We had a short break for a sandwich and a cuppa near Adare then called at Cara Motorhomes in Rathkeale. We bought Mirabel from their branch in Longton, Stoke-on-Trent. They were pleased to see us and promised to let the staff in Stoke know that we called.
We arrived at White Bridge caravan park in late afternoon. The site is extensive but only a few motorhomes were present this late in the season.

Mirabel at White Bridge, Killarney

Tuesday, 2^nd October

A Beautiful Day, But …

We woke to a grey sky which cleared by mid morning to give us the sunniest and warmest day of the holiday. Unfortunately, Lyn was quite poorly, feeling dizzy and sick, so we were unable to make good use of the weather. Lyn spent much of the day sleeping and didn’t really feel better until well into the evening. Apart from walking Button a few times we all spent the day in Mirabel.

Wednesday, 3^rd October

Ring of Kerry

Lyn was feeling much better so we set out to “do” the Ring of Kerry. The weather was nowhere near as nice as yesterday. Low cloud and mist obscured most of the mountain views. We stopped at Rosbeigh Point to give Button a walk on the beach but, as the tide was full in, we were unable to get onto the sand so had to content ourselves with a walk along the grassland behind the beach.

Rosbeigh

Viewpoint near Kells

We continued on to Portmagee and Valencia Island where we were able to reach a good viewpoint at Bray Head looking out towards Skellig Michael – not that we could see it through the mist! Bray Head is where the first transatlantic telephone cable left Ireland. The cable was made by Thomas Bolton of Froghall in Staffordshire, a strong link with home for us. Up till now we hadn't been too impressed with the north side of the Ring. There were a lot of tourist coaches and little in the way of magnificent views.

Looking towards Skellig Michael from Bray Head

Wild Atlantic Way post at Bray Head

We continued round the south side and things improved considerably. We stopped at a small cove at Killonecaha. A lovely, small sandy beach that Button enjoyed very much. We stopped again at Ballinskelligs and walked down to its super beach. Unfortunately it began to rain so we retreated quickly back to Mirabel. Button had run down to the sea and stood and watched in disbelief as we turned back. “We’ve only just got here! Where are you going?” she was saying.

Cove at Killonecaha

Rocks at Killonecaha

Killonecaha Beach

Near Ballinskelligs

Beach near Ballinskelligs

Looking towards Caherdaniel and Scariff Island

Our next stop was at Waterville where we found a small cafe for a pot of tea and a snack; soup for Lyn and carrot cake for me. Suitably refreshed, we continued through Sneem and Templenoe to Kenmare. The road was very uneven and Mirabel was bounced about a lot. After Kenmare the road climbed steadily to Molls Gap and a terrific view down the valley back towards the Killarney National Park. We stopped at Ladies View to take some photos and stretch our legs then drove down the hill on a winding road behind a queue of cars into Killarney.

Lyn and Button at Ladies View

In the evening we enjoyed a meal of steak and chips with mushroom, tomato and onions. A good end to the day.

Thursday, 4^th October

Wet!

We woke to a grey and drizzly morning. While Lyn did some essential washing I went to get a refill of propane gas. 6kg cylinders of Calor propane are as rare as hen’s teeth in Ireland so I had to get the empty cylinder refilled. A motor repair shop behind a garage was able to do this and it cost me only 9€ as opposed to £25 for a full cylinder in the UK! It’s a shame that it isn’t possible to get cylinders refilled at home.
The weather didn’t improve so after a snack lunch we drove the short distance to Ross Castle in the National Park very close to Killarney. We were able to take a decent walk through woodland to viewpoints over Lough Leane passing some old copper workings. The mist and low cloud rather spoiled what would probably have been superb views over the lake to the mountains beyond. The drizzle continued getting heavier as we returned to Mirabel and by the time we got back to the camp site it was steadily raining. The worst weather we have had all holiday so far.

Misty view of Lough Leane

Puffballs on tree stump in Ross Castle woods