County Clare and Killarney

Saturday, 29^th September

Travelling South again

We left Seal Caves in Dugort mid morning and started on our journey to Doolin in County Clare. The first part of the journey took us via the Wild Atlantic Way along the coast road on Achill Island. The views were truly spectacular, looking out over the Atlantic towards Clew Bay. On reaching Achill Sound we stopped at Kildavnet. This fishing port has strong historical connections to the Pirate Queen, Gráinne Ní Mháille (Grace O’Malley in the English version). She was a very intelligent and successful lady who took over active leadership of the lordship after her father died. She led a large group of seamen that collected tolls from ships passing through the Sound and also sacked and took several castles. Her main residence was at Clare Island in Clew Bay but she also held a tower house at Kildavnet.

The beach at Dooega

Between Dooega and Kildavnet

Kildavnet pier

Grace O'Malley's tower house

Button and Lyn

We drove back over the bridge to the mainland and made our way down via Westport and Galway to Doolin. We were pleased to see the Burren again, last visited by us 28 years ago. We passed through Lisdoonvarna which was very busy with the matchmaking festival that takes place every September. Doolin was also very busy and felt very touristy; not really our sort of place but we had booked and paid for a pitch at Nagles Campsite in advance. Ferries leave from Doolin pier for the Aran Islands. I considered taking a trip out on the morrow depending on the weather. It was quite windy and very grey this evening.

Wild Atlantic Way post at Doolin Pier

Cliffs of Moher from Doolin

Limestone pavement at Doolin

Sunday, 30^th September

The Burren

The weather hadn’t improved so after a cooked breakfast we drove out to Kilfenora to see the cathedral of St Fachtnagh built around 1200 as the centre of the smallest diocese in Ireland. Several stone crosses can be seen here or nearby though one of the high crosses was removed to Killaloe in the 19^th century. Kilfenora is known as the gateway to the Burren and the Burren Discovery Centre is situated there. It was also the location for much of the filming of Father Ted!

Crosses at Kilfenora

Cross at Kilfenora

We continued on to visit Poulnabrone Dolmen, A portal Tomb built in the Neolithic Period. We last visited this site with our children 28 years ago when it seemed a lonely, isolated and little visited place. It is now much visited and the Dolmen itself is roped off though still easy to see. We had a long conversation with the warden there who told us that now it needs constant supervision because of graffiti and vandalism. Sometimes tourism is a curse!

Poulnabrone Portal Tomb

We continued on through the limestone pavement (Karst) scenery of the Burren to follow the coast road back to Doolin. The narrow road was quite busy with tourist coaches which made for difficult progress in Mirabel. We stopped at Fanore to give Button a chance for a play on the beach. She had her usual manic time chasing the ball and digging.

Burren view

Lyn kicking the ball for Button to chase

Got it!

Fanore Beach

Monday, 1^st October

To Killarney

We left Doolin to travel south to Killarney passing along the road that goes past the Cliffs of Moher visitor centre. I’m rather glad we didn’t go there. Our memories of the Cliffs from nearly 30 years ago are of a wild and deserted but magnificent place. When we passed today there were already at least half a dozen tour buses and several dozen cars there. Seeing this natural wonder surrounded by hoards of other visitors did not appeal.
We continued on through Westport (where I proposed to Lyn 47 years ago!) and Ennis to take the M18 motorway to Limerick. We had a short break for a sandwich and a cuppa near Adare then called at Cara Motorhomes in Rathkeale. We bought Mirabel from their branch in Longton, Stoke-on-Trent. They were pleased to see us and promised to let the staff in Stoke know that we called.
We arrived at White Bridge caravan park in late afternoon. The site is extensive but only a few motorhomes were present this late in the season.

Mirabel at White Bridge, Killarney

Tuesday, 2^nd October

A Beautiful Day, But …

We woke to a grey sky which cleared by mid morning to give us the sunniest and warmest day of the holiday. Unfortunately, Lyn was quite poorly, feeling dizzy and sick, so we were unable to make good use of the weather. Lyn spent much of the day sleeping and didn’t really feel better until well into the evening. Apart from walking Button a few times we all spent the day in Mirabel.

Wednesday, 3^rd October

Ring of Kerry

Lyn was feeling much better so we set out to “do” the Ring of Kerry. The weather was nowhere near as nice as yesterday. Low cloud and mist obscured most of the mountain views. We stopped at Rosbeigh Point to give Button a walk on the beach but, as the tide was full in, we were unable to get onto the sand so had to content ourselves with a walk along the grassland behind the beach.

Rosbeigh

Viewpoint near Kells

We continued on to Portmagee and Valencia Island where we were able to reach a good viewpoint at Bray Head looking out towards Skellig Michael – not that we could see it through the mist! Bray Head is where the first transatlantic telephone cable left Ireland. The cable was made by Thomas Bolton of Froghall in Staffordshire, a strong link with home for us. Up till now we hadn't been too impressed with the north side of the Ring. There were a lot of tourist coaches and little in the way of magnificent views.

Looking towards Skellig Michael from Bray Head

Wild Atlantic Way post at Bray Head

We continued round the south side and things improved considerably. We stopped at a small cove at Killonecaha. A lovely, small sandy beach that Button enjoyed very much. We stopped again at Ballinskelligs and walked down to its super beach. Unfortunately it began to rain so we retreated quickly back to Mirabel. Button had run down to the sea and stood and watched in disbelief as we turned back. “We’ve only just got here! Where are you going?” she was saying.

Cove at Killonecaha

Rocks at Killonecaha

Killonecaha Beach

Near Ballinskelligs

Beach near Ballinskelligs

Looking towards Caherdaniel and Scariff Island

Our next stop was at Waterville where we found a small cafe for a pot of tea and a snack; soup for Lyn and carrot cake for me. Suitably refreshed, we continued through Sneem and Templenoe to Kenmare. The road was very uneven and Mirabel was bounced about a lot. After Kenmare the road climbed steadily to Molls Gap and a terrific view down the valley back towards the Killarney National Park. We stopped at Ladies View to take some photos and stretch our legs then drove down the hill on a winding road behind a queue of cars into Killarney.

Lyn and Button at Ladies View

In the evening we enjoyed a meal of steak and chips with mushroom, tomato and onions. A good end to the day.

Thursday, 4^th October

Wet!

We woke to a grey and drizzly morning. While Lyn did some essential washing I went to get a refill of propane gas. 6kg cylinders of Calor propane are as rare as hen’s teeth in Ireland so I had to get the empty cylinder refilled. A motor repair shop behind a garage was able to do this and it cost me only 9€ as opposed to £25 for a full cylinder in the UK! It’s a shame that it isn’t possible to get cylinders refilled at home.
The weather didn’t improve so after a snack lunch we drove the short distance to Ross Castle in the National Park very close to Killarney. We were able to take a decent walk through woodland to viewpoints over Lough Leane passing some old copper workings. The mist and low cloud rather spoiled what would probably have been superb views over the lake to the mountains beyond. The drizzle continued getting heavier as we returned to Mirabel and by the time we got back to the camp site it was steadily raining. The worst weather we have had all holiday so far.

Misty view of Lough Leane

Puffballs on tree stump in Ross Castle woods