Donegal and Achill Island

Tuesday, September 25^th

A Windy Day

We woke to a grey and windy morning and discussed what we would do for the day. After a leisurely breakfast and a coffee we drove to Carrigart to do some shopping. From there we went on to Dunfanaghy. Lyn holidayed there when she was 18!

Horn Head panorama

We drove up to Horn Head along a narrow winding road. The views were spectacular but the wind was so strong that I had a lot of difficulty holding the camera steady. Back in Dunfanaghy we stopped for a sandwich and a cuppa before travelling on to Marblehill Beach. By this time Button was desperate for a play on the sand and she chased the ball for a while. The brother of an old school friend Lyn hasn’t seen for about 40 years owns some holiday parks there and we tried to contact him so that Lyn could regain contact with her friend Georgina.

Selfie on Marblehill Beach

Lyn and Button on Marblehill Beach

Back at Rosguill the wind was as strong as ever but we enjoyed our evening meal and a bottle of wine.

Wednesday, September 26^th

Two Castles and a National Park

We woke to find no power from the hook-up. On investigation I found that it was just our power point so I moved the cable to one adjacent. Phew! It wasn’t quite as windy but there was a fine drizzle in the air and it was rather misty. We decided to make for Glenveagh National Park which was not too long a drive in these poor conditions.

Wild Atlantic Way viewpoint at Rosguill Peninsula

We started out driving round the Rosguill Peninsula. We stopped to look at the view at one of the Wild Atlantic Way viewpoints at the tip of the peninsula. Then continued through Downings village and out towards our destination. On the way we stopped at another Wild Atlantic Way viewpoint, Doe Castle. The castle dates from the 15^th century and was the stronghold of the Mac Sweeney’s. Legend has it that Aileen Mac Sweeney threw herself to her death from the castle after her father murdered her lover, the son of a bitter rival.

Doe Castle

View from Wild Atlantic Way

We travelled on to Glenveagh National Park and, after calling at the visitor centre, took Button for a walk round the nature trail. We took a shuttle bus to Glenveagh Castle but had to leave Button in Mirabel. We followed the garden trail and admired the interesting array of plants and trees on view. After an essential stop for cakes and tea (!) we continued our walk round. We were delighted with the gardens and the view along the Lough. It was a very worthwhile visit.

Avenue of trained Rowan trees at Glenveigh

Glanveigh Victorian Pleasure Grounds

Glenveigh Castle and kitchen garden

Looking up through the trees to the head of the Lough

Glenveigh Lough

Thursday, September 27^th

From Donegal to Mayo

We prepared Mirabel for our journey south and were able to leave by 9:30. The weather was unpleasant with driving drizzle which persisted throughout most of the long drive. We stopped for a break at Mullaghmore, recommended by our friends Pamela and David. The weather wasn’t nice enough to go on the excellent beach but we were able to walk Button around the harbour and grab a sandwich and a cuppa before resuming our trip.

Mullaghmore harbour

Lobster pots at Mullaghmore

We finally arrived at Achill Island at about 4 p.m. and set up camp at the smart new Seal Caves site. The site in Dugort is just a short walk from the beach and is below the peak of Slievemore (686 mtrs). The weather had now improved considerably so we were able to take Button for a romp on the beach. She was really excited at being released from her “prison” in Mirabel and charged about after her ball. We had a drink in the nearby Strand Hotel before returning to Mirabel for our evening meal.

Mirabel at Dugort

On the beach at Dugort

Slievemore at dusk

Friday, September 28^th

Achill Island

After breakfast we drove the length of Achill Island to Keem Bay. We approached along a cliff edge mountain road and looked down onto the lovely beach surrounded by headlands; a perfect horseshoe bay. There were several cars there but it was by no means crowded. There were two food vans, one selling ice creams, waffles and more substantial dishes, the other specialising in sweeties! We walked down to the beach and Button sprang back into puppy mode chasing her ball and digging in the sand. This is a remote and beautiful place. Dolphins and Basking Sharks are often sighted here but we were not lucky enough to see any. Close to Keem Bay the mountain Cruachan rises to 689 meters and sea cliffs drop precipitously into the Atlantic – some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe.

Beautiful Keem Bay

Keem Bay panorama

Old coastguard station at Keem Bay

Driving along the cliff road

Back at the car park we had an ice cream and a cup of tea before heading back towards Keel, the largest settlement on Achill. We stopped off to look at a couple more beaches, none as beautiful as Keem. At Dookinella beach several kite surfers were gathered. They seemed quite sad to find that it was almost flat calm! There is a kite surfing weekend festival happening tomorrow and Sunday. They must be hoping the wind picks up again then.

Waterfall at Dookinella beach

Stony Dookinella beach looking towards Keel

We continued our exploration of the island going to Blacksod Bay and Golden Strand. Button had another wild romp on the beach and has devised a new game with her ball. She digs at it until there is a deep trench and, if she displaces the ball out behind her she picks it up, drops it back in the hole, and starts digging again! I think Button would spend her whole life playing on the beach if she could.
We went for a very nice meal in the evening to the Achill Cliff House Hotel. The seafood chowder was delicious as were all our other courses. We were the only customers in the dining room.

Tame robin at Blacksod Bay