Day 11 - Clashnessie to Durness

Friday 10^th June

Rather than fight the midges again at breakfast we packed up and moved on to a viewpoint on the headland above Drumbeg. After a relatively midge free breakfast we continued on re-joining the main road near Kylescu.

Our breakfast spot

We stopped for a break to take Button for a walk at Scourie and were pleased to find a community bird hide with lots of local natural history information. The hide is obviously much used by the local primary school as a resource with drawings and writings by the children on the walls.

The road now headed north east past Arkle and Foinaven (not the horses!).The cloud was down so we were unable to see the tops of the mountains. We soon dropped down to the village of Durness where our camp site, Sango Sands, was located. We took Button for her evening walk then had a meal at the pub next to the site.

Morag at Sango Sands, Durness

Beach and observation point

Beach from the observation point

Day 10 - Ullapool to Clashnessie

Thursday 9^th June

The curry was good, but there were some after effects! We left Ullapool and continued on our route but took a diversion to visit Achiltibuie and the Summer Isles. The road was a delight. We passed Loch Lurghainn below Stac Pollaidh, a mountain that has always fascinated me. The road continued on past more lochs eventually arriving at Badentarbet Bay and Achiltibuie. We stopped for a sandwich and a cuppa with a view across to the Summer Isles.

Stac Pollaidh

A lonely post box on the way to Achiltibuie

Morag and the Summer Isles

Rather than follow the road back to the NC500 route, we took another diversion along a narrow winding moorland road towards Inverkirkraig and Lochinver. More super views of the Summer Isles and some quite difficult driving.

Stac Pollaidh from another angle

Summer Isles view

Yet another view of Stac Pollaidh

At Lochinver we rejoined the official route which once again stayed near the coast. We stopped at a viewpoint near Achmelvich with superb views over the glen and the mountains. It would have made a great overnight stop but before we could set up we were invaded by Germans!

The view from our hoped for camp pitch before the Germans arrived!

We continued on to Clashnessie and stopped at the layby I was hoping to use for an overnight stop. However there was a “No Overnight Parking” sign so we moved on a little way to a lay-by beside Loch Eilleanach. We started setting up to prepare our evening meal but decided it would be nicer to have a barbecue by the beach back at Clashnessie. The barbecue was unsuccessful (the disposable BBQ just didn't get hot enough) so we had to cook our lamb leg steaks under te grill in Morag.

We returned to the lay-by beside the loch for the night. Foe the first time during the trip the midges were a real problem. They made sleeping quite difficult.

Clashnessie Beach

Day 9 - Poolewe to Ullapool

Wednesday 8^th June

The day started cloudy but dry and after breakfast outside and Button's morning constitutional we packed up and left for Ullapool. Once again the views along the coast road were excellent and the sun broke through the cloud occasionally.

We stopped for a coffee near Gruinard Bay and were able to take a short walk up a glen where we saw some orchids and a frog.

The glen near Gruinard Bay

The frog (actually I think it's a toad!)

Lesser Butterfly Orchid (I think)

We drove on past Little Loch Broom and over the pass from the Dundonnel Glen to the Lael Forest. We stopped at a picnic area at Lael Forest Garden – the most northerly arboretum in Britain. We had a picnic lunch before taking a pleasant stroll through the arboretum.

Waterfall at Lael Forest Garden

Lyn and Button walking in Lael Forest

The three of us

It was only a short drive from there to Ullapool where we stocked up on supplies before heading to the camp site at Ullapool Point. We had a walk through the town and saw the Stornaway ferry arrive. Later I took some photos of the ferry leaving on its return trip to Stornaway. As there is an Indian restaurant next to the site we decided to visit it for our evening meal.

The front at Ullapool

Stornaway ferry departing

Ullapool sunset

Day 8 - At Poolewe

Tuesday 7^th June

We decided to stay at this lovely location for a second night. After a breakfast of bacon and egg, I set off for a walk while Lyn took Button down to the beach. My walk was a little disappointing as I had to stick mostly on the road. The views and the weather were both very good though.

Firemore Beach. The view from our pitch.

After lunch we realised that we were low on drinking water and that the cassette toilet was nearly full. I drove Morag the six miles to Poolewe where I bought a 2 litre bottle of water and some supplies from the shop. I was also able to empty the cassette in the public loo.

On arriving back in the camping area I found that another motorhome and arrived very close to the spot we had been using. This despite leaving out the picnic table and chairs and leaving Lyn and button behind. We came to an amicable agreement; they moved a little further away and we move across a little from our previous spot.

Evening beach play with Button

Got it!

During the evening it started to cloud over and eventually started to rain. It rained for about 30 minutes – the first poor weather we had seen since leaving home. Nevertheless Lyn was able to take Button for her evening walk before we retired for the night.

Day 7 - Applecross to Poolewe

Monday 6^th June

We enjoyed out short stay at Applecross but had to leave today. We set off at about 10.30 and followed the coast road north from Applecross around the peninsula. This must be one of the most scenic roads in Britain. It follows close to the coast for 20 miles or so with views out to Raasay, Skye and Rona.

Applecross traffic jam

Looking towards Raasay and Skye

On the road to Shieldag

On the road to Sheildag

Kenmore hamlet

View of the Loch at Kenmore

We stopped for a cuppa in the tiny village of Kenmore before continuing on to Shieldag where we did some essential shopping and watched the seals playing in the loch. The route soon left the coast and traversed the length of Glen Torridon. The Liathach and Beinn Eighe mountains dominated the route.

After passing through Kinlochewe we travelled along the side of Loch Maree. We stopped to have lunch by the loch with lovely views. We crossed back to the coast at Gairloch and on to Poolewe. We had decided to wild camp that night so searched for a suitable spot along the Poolewe to Cove minor road. We investigated an area next to a slipway but decided to carry on, and we were glad that we did. We found a superb beachside area of common land where we able to park up with magnificent views for the princely sum of £5 in the honesty box!

Lunch stop at Loch Maree

Resting at the site between Poolewe and Cove

The view from Morag!

We took Button for a long walk along the beach and had a barbecue in the warm evening sunshine.

Barbecue in the sun

Day 6 - Start of the North Coast 500

Sunday 5^th June

The start of our North Coast 500 journey. After the usual morning chores and breakfast we set off from the CC site to find our way through Inverness. Although the day started very cloudy the weather steadily improved becoming sunny and very warm.

Our fist stop was at the Rogie Falls on the River Blackwater. We had an excellent walk to the falls through conifer woodland and I took plenty of photos. Button had a swim in the river to cool off, we didn't! We continued on our journey through superb Highland scenery before stopping for a sandwich and a coffee at Lochcarron.

Woodland scene at Rogie Falls

Lyn and Button on the suspension bridge at Rogie Falls

Rogie Falls

The next part of the journey was over the Bealach na Bà. In places a 1 in 4 climb with hairpin bends. We had to stop a couple of times to let Morag cool down but made it to the top with no real problems. The view from the top was very impressive. This road is the highest road pass in Britain at over 2000 feet.

Looking up the Bealach na Ba

View from one of Morag's rest stops

The four of us at the top of the pass

The journey down from the pass was easy and we arrived at the Applecross campsite at about 5 o'clock. We took Button for a walk through the site and nearby woodland before making our way to the Applecross Inn for dinner.

Day 5 - To Inverness

Saturday 4^th June

We had a cooked breakfast (sliced sausage and fried egg) then packed up ready to leave for Inverness. The drive through Glasgow was quite busy but, once on the A9 we made good progress. We stopped for a cup of tea in Morag in Blackford near Gleneagles. I found a nice footpath to take Button for a short walk.

We stopped again for a sandwich lunch near Dalwhinnie. We could have gone for lunch at the Loch Ericht Hotel where we spent the second night of our honeymoon 44 years ago!

Once we got to Inverness we did a little food shopping and then made our way to the CC site at Culloden Moor. The site is well-equipped with an excellent do walking area in forestry woodland adjacent. Pasta and sauce and a glass of red wine were consumed as our evening meal.

Morag resting in Inverness

Button and Lyn walking in the woods next to the site